One of the biggest mistakes first-time gardeners make is planning an area that is too large to maintain. Mark your row with stakes at each end and stretch a garden line between them. Make grooves, known as drills, just 1 centimeter deep for small seeds, maybe 2 centimeters deep for larger seeds. Spread small seeds evenly and together.
Especially for beginning gardeners, thinning can be a painful process. It seems like a waste to destroy perfectly good seedlings. If not diluted, radishes will not form bulbs. Carrots won't grow or twist grotesquely.
You should start thinning when the seedlings are 3-5 centimeters tall. Do not try to thin out the seedlings all at once. A thick row of lettuce leaves can be thinned at first by removing all other plants. You can remove more plants in later thinning, when the lettuce is big enough to eat.
When thinning a row with thick seeds, pull out each plant carefully, lifting it upwards, to avoid disturbing the roots of neighboring plants. Design a weeding program, a trip once or twice a week between the rows of your garden with a hoe. When weeds are small, you can simply scrape them. But if you dig the hoe more than 1 or 2 centimeters into the ground, you run the risk of cutting off the plant roots.
Large weeds and weeds that grow inside the rows should be pulled out by hand. Pulling weeds is easier if the soil is moist; try weeding after a storm or schedule weeds for the day after watering. Plants need between 3 and 4 centimeters of water per week. During warm, rain-free weather, or when garden soil becomes dusty and dry, you'll need to water your garden.
Watering is particularly important for young plants with shallow roots. As plants grow, their roots penetrate deeper into the soil, where moisture remains even when the soil surface is dry. Deep and deep irrigations are much more effective than short and shallow irrigations. A mulch is a ground cover usually composed of organic materials, such as leaves, hay, or grass clippings.
Mulching gardeners don't have to weed as much and find that a layer of mulch around their plants helps conserve moisture in the soil. It can also help prevent the spread of various soil-borne diseases. Some good mulching materials include hay, especially “spoiled hay”, which has already begun to decay; grass clippings after they have started to dry out and turn gray; shredded or composted leaves; well-rotted manure mixed with straw; moss peat mixed with sawdust or wood chips (peat alone is weighs down and dries), and water will not penetrate). When the seedlings are about 10 centimeters tall, spread a thick layer of mulching material between the plants and between the rows.
As summer progresses and the mulch breaks down, add more. If you maintain perpetual mulch coverage in your garden, the soil will take longer to warm and dry out in spring than soil without mulch. Therefore, for early sowing, set aside the mulch where you intend to make grooves for the seeds and wait for the soil to warm up and dry out. Usually, the germination stage of seeds lasts about 1 to 2 weeks or even a few days.
After that, the first tiny root grows in search of water and nutrients. This stage begins when the root system can support growth and lasts between 3 and 16 weeks. A successful orchard starts with good soil that can support healthy plants capable of resisting insects and diseases. The five main steps to preparing a garden site are soil testing, bed modification, pre-planting irrigation, fertilization, and seedbed preparation.
To help you better understand and deal with your gardening distress, here is my adaptation of the Kí¼bler-Ross model, commonly known as The Five Stages of Pain. Perhaps, by better understanding the stages of gardening and identifying what stage you are at, you will find peace in your garden again. For your new plant to have the healthiest roots, leaves and stems, it's important that it has many of these basic ingredients in the vegetative stage. .
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